Laid Back & Low Key in Long Island

by | Nov 27, 2018

When I mention Long Island, for many of us that big one off the Northeast coast of the US comes to mind. Venture a bit farther south and you’ll hit a completely different Long Island right here in The Bahamas. Although I’ve never been to Long Island, New York, I imagine it’s home to a few more people with slightly less tropical beaches than its southern sister.

It’s said that it was christened the name Long Island by a sailor who called it such simply because it took so long to sail past the entire island. It’s about 65 miles long, not the longest island in The Bahamas, but one in the family of lanky islands running northish/southish. Each coastline is staggeringly different – to the east are rocky cliffs and caves that drop sharply into the Atlantic Ocean, and to the west are soft, with creeks, mangroves, and prime bonefishing flats.

The Long Islanders (there’s about 3000 of them) are known for their genuine hospitality, and you’ll have no problem navigating your rental car on the island simply by stopping and asking for directions. You may get thoroughly confused by the local’s affinity to use the terms “down north” and “up south” however, as well as referring to the east side of the island as the north side, and the west side as the south. It’s said these terms spurred because of the sailing directions. Typically, when heading north, you’d be sailing downwind, hence “down north” and visa-versa.

Clarence Town is home to two churches built by Father Jerome, who also built the infamous Hermitage in Cat Island, and *fun fact* the island has one of the highest concentrations of churches per capita in The Bahamas. There is plenty of exploring to do on both land and in the water, including Hamilton’s Cave, one of the largest cave systems in The Bahamas, world-famous Dean’s Blue Hole, the deepest blue hole in the world, the Columbus Monument, plantation ruins, bonefishing, swimming pigs and world-class diving.

Dean’s Blue Hole at 663ft deep

When you’re on the island, you’ll have to stop at Max’s Conch Stand. It’s a no-frills open-air shack right on the side of Queen’s Highway. There isn’t a view or anything since you’re right on the side of the highway, but on any given afternoon you’ll find a diverse group of congregators contributing to the good vibe. Their tagline is “fast food is not good food, and good food is not fast”, so be prepared to settle in with a few cold beers if you order food, but you won’t be disappointed.

Max’s Conch Stand, Deadman’s Cay, Long Island

Another spot we discovered while darting down side roads is Tiny’s Hurricane Hole, a relatively new establishment located on the protected harbourside in Salt Pond. It’s located down a long, bumpy dirt road, but once you get there it’s well worth the short safari-style trek. They offer up craft cocktails and there’s a good mix of winter residents, sailboaters and visitors.

The inviting beach at Tiny’s Hurricane Hole

For shopping, be sure to stop into Judee’s Blissful Creations, located in a bright blue building along Queen’s Highway. The building used to be the police station. After a hurricane deemed it unusable, the police station moved next door and Judee took over, turning it into her craft studio. She makes her own jewelry and bush teas. Within the two jail cells, she has collections of historic artifacts and will gladly talk you through them. Outside the shop are two impressive painted driftwood signs naming all of the settlements on Long Island from North to South (or from down north to up south).

Judee’s Blissful Creations – the former police station, now colorfully adorned with signs listing all of Long Island’s settlements

On our visit we had the opportunity to stay at Stella Maris Resort, located just a few minutes from Stella Maris airport on the eastern side of the island. Towering palm trees sway in the breeze as you amble through cobblestone roads towards the ocean. On property are three swimming pools, a restaurant and bar with lounge area, and a beach bar on the edge of the ocean. They have several types of accommodation offerings, including hotel rooms, one and two bedroom cottages, and three and four bedroom ocean-front houses. For a group, look into 4 bedroom Dolphin House, with an expansive patio and pool overlooking the ocean. When nightfalls, lounge on the breezy pool deck and soak in the intense backlight of stars in the black night sky, far, far away from any light pollution.

Dolphin House at Stella Maris Resort

For beaches, it doesn’t get much better than Cape Santa Maria, one of our Top 11 Best Beaches in The Bahamas. It’s recognized internationally as one of the best beaches in the world, and named for one of Christopher Columbus’ ships. The water gently laps onto the shore in most weather conditions, but on a calm day, you’ll truly be swayed into believing you’ve reached heaven, as the soft, powdery sand stretches for four endless miles. If you don’t feel like getting your feet sandy, enjoy sunsets with a cocktail at the Beach House, or meander along the wooden walkway.

Cape Santa Maria Resort and its stunning beach

Long Island holds a special place in our hearts. I’ve spent very little time there, but Mark knows the island well and has done several construction projects, with quite a few current real estate listings on the island. It’s fairly easy to get to from Nassau, with two flights per day into Stella Maris and Deadman’s Cay. But once you get there, I assure you, you’re not going to want to leave.

For more information on Long Island and traveling to and within The Bahamas, be sure to check out my travel guidebook, Moon Bahamas.

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